Men’s Formal dress code – a BLUGIALLO guide

Let’s settle the main question straight away—Black Tie means Tuxedo or Formal Dinner Jacket. It’s the most refined piece in a man’s wardrobe, and when the invitation calls for it, the rules are there to help you shine. The key to standing out? A perfect fit. Sure, maybe some sleek, water-combed hair too, but keep it sharp and timeless.

Traditionally, the tuxedo (or dinner jacket) is black, and there’s a certain elegance and understated confidence in sticking to that. However, if a midnight blue tuxedo feels more your style, you’re still very much on the right track. And if you’re the bold type, an ivory dinner jacket is your moment to step up—but remember, the same rules of fit and formality apply. At the end of the day, it’s all about looking effortlessly refined while embracing your personal style. And always consider the audience and respect the people that handed you the invite.

A custom-made tuxedo or dinner jacket is incredibly versatile and effortlessly elegant. Whether it’s for a wedding, a black tie event, or that New Year’s Eve party, a well-fitted tuxedo is always the right answer. That being considered, when tailored properly, there’s few garments that will carry such great moments, memories and good times for such a prolonged period (before you might eventually pass it on to the younger generation).

What makes it even better is how adaptable it can be. Traditionally worn for formal events, the tuxedo jacket also doubles as a statement piece when paired with denim and knitwear for a night out. This of course requires some considerations and adjustments to the design which is why we are so strong on the custom made focus of a beautiful formel wear piece.  The key is also (always) tailoring. When a tuxedo is made to your exact measurements, it becomes timeless—ensuring you always look sharp, no matter the occasion.

And let’s not forget, the tuxedo is built to last. Its classic design will keep you looking polished for many years to come, making it more than just formalwear—it’s a piece that effortlessly blends into both dressed-up and dressed-down looks.

Obviously depending on the occasion and crowd, there are a few considerations to always bare in mind when curating your Tuxedo-look. To give you an example, we’ve shared a few of our ‘Family rules’ to Formal wear attire when BLUGIALLO gathers for some ‘Panache’. Naturally our colleagues always break a few of them, but the important ones – never.

BLUGIALLO house rules

• The shirt should always be crisp white and cut with our ‘Kent collar’
  • We’re no fans of the ‘stand-up’ collar, but we can make it for you if you have good reasons.
  • On less formal occasions you can wear tonal knitwear (has to be thin-knitted cashmere & silk)
• Trousers should be worn clean without a belt
  • Choose a straight finish on the trousers – it’s the most formal approach
• If you are wearing a satin or gross grain lapel – a matching bowtie
  • handmade and self-tied, no excuses

General considerations on fabric, accesories & design

• Black, navy or ivory tuxedo fabrics
  • Can vary from classic ‘barathea wools’ to bamboo, velvet or even raw silk if you have deep pockets. This is usually where our job as style curators becomes interesting.
• Choose between single- or double-breasted jacket
  • Naturally, double breasted is a bit more formal and will usually stand out a bit more (in a positive way depending on the crowd).
• Pleated trouser or flat front
  • While flat front being the “accurate” choice from a very classic standpoint, we do love ourselves a deep single pleat to add some tailoring flavour to almost any trouser, tuxedo trousers included.
• Tonal shoes
  • The model depends on the overall vibe and look of your outfit – we love a tonal match with the fabric of the dinner jacket though, preferably a very low cut slipper or formal shoe.
  • For the material, think about the structure and fabric of the dinner jacket; could be velvet, but also patent leather or fine calf.

Let’s talk formal suits. Every man should have a dark suit in their wardrobe—it’s a non-negotiable. And just to be clear, when we’re talking about formal suits, it means a matching jacket and trousers. Simple, right?

We’ll always back the navy suit—it’s the ultimate go-to because the styling possibilities are endless. Dark grey or even dark brown are also excellent choices that offer just as much versatility. All three colors fit perfectly within the formal suit dress code. The beauty of this dress code? It’s straightforward, no complex rules—just stick to the basics and let your fit do the talking. If you want to stand out, do it with how well your suit fits. A dark suit comes in handy for many occasions. It is a very versatile piece that can be styled both formally with a shirt and tie or casually with knitwear. This means that you can wear a dark suit on daily basis and it will still be useful for weddings, it’s all about how you style it.

How you style it? That’s entirely up to you. Make it yours, and ask us for help if needed.

BLUGIALLO house rules

• If it’s a formal event – midnight blue or dark/charcoal grey
• Wear a matching structure tie
  • Silk with silk, greanadine with more structured weaves, and so on.
• Avoid patterns that make you stand out
  • A subtle, perfectly fitted suit will make more of an impression that bold patterns, especially when they are not called for.

General considerations on fabric, accesories & design

• Play with the design
  • As long as you keep the formal look and don’t wander off to tuxedo-land, a slice of individuality is great.
• Shoes, not sneakers
  • There just no formal occasion with dress code ‘Dress suit’ that allows for sneakers. Particularly if they’re designer made and expensive – they don’t belong.
• Choose the color of the shirt after the level of formality that you want to achieve. White is the most formal, and tone on tone is less formal.

You might think this dress code means you can throw on a jacket with odd trousers, but not quite. The Jacket dress code still requires a full suit—jacket and matching trousers—but with a more relaxed feel. It’s all about dialing down the formality while keeping things polished. The beauty here? You’ve got more freedom when it comes to color and fabric.

As mentioned, this dress code is often used for summer weddings, where seasonal fabrics like linen really come into play. A linen suit, especially in a sand tone, is the perfect choice—not just for weddings, but for any warm-weather event. Linen trousers in sand, for example, are versatile enough to wear almost every day in summer. That’s why it’s always smart to grab an extra pair of trousers when you’re investing in a linen suit.

The linen jacket? Easily dressed down with denim and a t-shirt or paired with just about anything in your wardrobe. It’s that perfect blend of casual luxury that works beyond weddings—think garden parties, summer events, or just when you want to look sharp in the heat. The Jacket dress code gives you the flexibility to interpret your look while keeping it effortlessly refined.

House Rules for Effortless Style

• Choose the Right Fabric for the Moment Your suit should always align with the season, the weather, and the vibe you’re going for. A lightweight linen for summer weddings or a rich flannel for chilly autumn evenings—let the fabric work with you, not against you.
• Always Wear a Shirt This one’s simple: a shirt is non-negotiable. Whether it’s a crisp white Oxford or a soft piqué, your shirt is the foundation of your look.
• When in Doubt, Bring a Tie Unsure if a tie is required? Play it safe—toss one in your bag. It’s always easier to take it off than wish you’d brought it.
• Formal Shoes, Always Don’t underestimate the power of great footwear. A well-shined formal shoe will anchor your outfit and set the tone for the rest of your look.

Thoughts on Fabrics, Accessories & Design

• Suit Color & Fabric: Whether you’re rocking a midnight blue wool suit or a sand-colored linen, the color and fabric should reflect the season and event. Wool for fall, linen for summer. Simple.
• Shirt Color & Fabric: A crisp white shirt is a classic for a reason, but don’t shy away from soft pastels or subtle checks in breathable fabrics like cotton or linen. It’s all about matching the shirt to the tone of the suit.
• Accessories: The devil’s in the details. Pocket squares, ties, and even subtle cufflinks can elevate your look. Just keep it balanced—let one piece do the talking.

Blazer Dress Code: The (Un)Rules

The Essentials:

• Jacket + Non-Matching Trousers = Success All you need is a blazer paired with trousers that don’t match. Simple, easy, and stylish.
• Leave the Suit Behind This isn’t the place for a full suit—mix it up and let your blazer do the talking.
• Skip the Bowtie Save that for tuxedos and black-tie events. This is more relaxed territory.

Your Style, Your Way:

• Fabric & Color? Your Call Choose fabrics and colors that fit the season and your vibe. Wool, linen, flannel—whatever feels right.
• Shirt or Knitwear? You Decide Whether it’s a crisp shirt or soft knit, both are perfect. Dress it up or keep it laid-back—your choice.
• Footwear? Formal Shoes Recommended, But… Formal shoes are a classic choice, but if you’re feeling it, a subtle suede sneaker can work just as well.
• Tie or No Tie? Want to wear a tie? Go ahead. But honestly, in this setting, it might be a bit too much—keep it cool and relaxed.