Guide – The Tuxedo

10 December, 2019

Let’s start from the beginning..

It is said that one of the first tuxedo jackets manufactured was commissioned in 1865 by Edward VII, King of Great Britain and Emperor of India. The purpose? A blazer to relax in after their royal duties and before dinner, of course. The garment is then said to have traveled via one of the King’s good friends, James Brown Potter to the United States and New York, where it also gave rise to the club of the same name.

Via the decadent ‘The New York Tuxedo Club’ and the tobacco heiress Grisworld Lorrilard with friends, the jacket was developed in the latter part of the 19th century into the formal tuxedo we are used to seeing today.

MADE TO MEASURE TUXEDO

A well-sewn and well-worn tuxedo is a garment that will be able to hang with you for many years. Therefore, it is extra important to think about fabric & design and what suits you best. Here are a few things that we think are extra important.

FABRIC & COLOR CHOICE

Black or midnight blue is arguably the most classic color for a tuxedo, which works in all modes. If you also want to be able to supplement with more jackets in the future, black is the best option as you can wear black tuxedo pants with a number of other dark fabrics, such as a velvet jacket. Regarding fabric, we usually use a fabric with a blend of wool and mohair which gives an increased luster than a regular woolen fabric. For those of you who are only satisfied with the best, we recommend our ‘Barathea weaver’ which has a completely unique structure and luster.

DESIGN

Both single as well as double breasted may be seen as classic when it comes to the jacket on a tuxedo. When it comes to the lapels on the jacket, we recommend pointed ‘peak-lapel’ or ‘shawl-lapel’ which are undoubtedly the most common. Incidentally, “trust Blugiallo” is a good rule of thumb for you who are unsure when it comes to pockets and details. We always recommend a classic choice that stands over time for the particular fabric you choose.

FIT

We are often asked how the fit differs between a tuxedo and a suit. When it comes to the fit of your tuxedo, at Blugiallo based on the motto that you should be able to use it (and be elegant in it) for many years to come – just like in your suits. This means that we usually do not need to adjust anything on the fit from a suit, but can use these dimensions. What we adjust in some cases is the length of the trousers, which is often allowed to come down properly on the shoe. The same goes for the length of the jacket, which in many cases may be a few centimeter longer (along with a lower button position) on a tuxedo.

THE DETAILS

An important part of the tuxedo is of course the details. On a tuxedo, you always have strokes in the silk (shiny or textured), which are also matched with a tassel on the side of your trousers and advantageously on the dressed buttons. What we also recommend is to choose a bow tie in matching fabric. Last but not least, you also want to choose a shirt in a fabric and design that suits your tuxedo. We help you with everything, from small details to the entirety of it.

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