Blugiallo - Our Construction

When placing an order at Blugiallo, the make and construction of the jacket are two important aspects and something you will experience from a quality standpoint. Keep in mind that from all offered alternatives, we always recommend the construction which suits your choice of fabric and product best. Moreover, your individual fit profile, choice of construction and chosen fabric will sometimes generate different outcomes in terms of look and feel. That is why we believe it is of importance to inform about certain baselines of makes and constructions, which this guide will present for you. With that said, as a customer of Blugiallo you should never feel the pressure of knowing what is right or wrong, we are happy to take that role. What’s important for you would then be the context you are going to wear your garment and your personal preference of what you enjoy wearing. If you provide us with that information, we will take care of the rest.

Our constructions are divided into:

Sewn half canvas – our entry level construction and a well-chosen default choice for all jackets.

Full canvas – Our sewn full canvas construction provides an extraordinary fit and well-defined silhouette.

Unconstructed – The casual choice of construction and a part of our DNA.

Blugiallo handmade – The most exclusive and advanced choice of constructions where handmade methods are adding look and feel to the jacket.

At Blugiallo, we always tailor the jacket according to your wishes and preferences. As a new or existing customer, we are always happy to give advice on the best matched construction for your alternative.

Sewn half canvas

The sewn half canvas is the most versatile construction we offer and can easily be used for both formal suit jackets and casual jackets preferably made of heavier cloth. The canvas weave, which has a rather stiff composition of cotton, horsehair and linen, is positioned in between the outer and inner fabric layers and creates a more solid shape along the body. The canvas starts from the shoulder and is containing three sewn layers covering the chest in order to support the crucial area around chest and lapel roll. Having the canvas sewn into the lapel creates a larger lapel roll which always should be seen as a qualitative aspect on any jacket. Starting from the shoulder, the concept of half canvas refers to endpoint being positioned slightly below the buttoning position, covering half of the front piece, and then leaving the part between button and hem empty. Having canvas covering half of the front is one of the major differences between half and full canvas.

Hand sewn parts: Buttons, flower-loop (underneath lapel), fastening of collar, hem around vents.

Full canvas

The full canvas construction is offered as the next level step from our half canvas, providing the best possible comfort and drop along the full front part of the jacket. When discussing full canvas constructions, we always refer to “floating canvas layers”, which is a natural outcome due to the canvas layers being sewn from the top all the way down to the hem creating an adaptability which will improve the fit of the jacket as it is worn. This adaptiveness to your body shape brings a long term dimension to the jacket and is recommended for customers prioritizing both movement and defined structure. Full canvas is a great choice for both suit jackets and blazers.

 

Hand sewn parts: Buttons, flower-loop (underneath lapel), fastening of collar, hem around vents, sleeve hem, lining attachment around armhole.

Unconstructed make

When it comes to the unconstructed make, it is important to clarify that in this guide we refer to the construction of chest, lapel and front piece of the jacket and not the shoulder construction (which also has an option called unconstructed). In contrast to both half- and full canvas constructions, the unconstructed make removes almost all canvas layers except for a rather neat part of the shoulder. Historically, the roots to the unconstructed make are found from the Italians request of a more leisure, lighter and more comfortable substitute to the formal suit jacket. The result became the unconstructed make, which provides these attributes, and has since early days of Blugiallo held an important part of the ‘Soft Tailoring’ style. The experience you may expect wearing an unconstructed jacket is a soft, flexible and casual feeling, letting the jacket pattern and individual measurements present the authentic shape of the jacket. This alternative is a perfect substitute to the formal wear and should be seen a casual option. Perfect in combination with denims, chinos and cotton trousers.

 

Hand sewn parts: Buttons, flower-loop (underneath lapel), fastening of collar, hem around vents.

Blugiallo handmade

The make with most craftsmanship and exclusivity is the Blugiallo handmade. As the name hints, this is the construction for connoisseurs appreciating the best craftsmanship. The handmade make has an advanced production method which make sure that the jacket has been made by following all rules within the art of tailoring. The Blugiallo handmade is primarily offered through our showrooms and upon request over the e-commerce.

Hand sewn parts: Buttons, flower-loop (underneath lapel), fastening of collar, hem around vents, sleeve hem, lining attachment around armhole, buttonholes, AMF stitches, chest pockets, strengthening around seams.

Canvas thickness

Blugiallo offers two different types of canvas, standard or light. Standard is a proper choice for almost every type of jacket, but primarily we would recommend using standard canvas for the formal options due to its robustness. Light, on the other hand, is preferable when combining fewer formal options but still want to add a construction rather than making the jacket unconstructed. For the popular high twist wool fabrics, light canvas is also preferable due to its ability to better complement the existing stiffness in high twist wool in order to avoid getting a too stiff feeling on the jacket. The decision whether to use standard or light canvas is normally done by us at Blugiallo, but of course well connected with you as a customer since its closeness to the choice of fabric.

We hope this article has provided a better understanding of what to expect from the quality and craftsmanship within our constructions. In the end of the day, we would like to emphasize that none of the choices behind a Blugiallo garment is done randomly. Instead, there is always a well thought through idea behind every one of them. If there is any inquiry, never hesitate to reach out!