The tailored overcoat – Q&A breakdown

Since we get a lot of questions around what type of tailored wool overcoats we offer, we thought best to gather some of the most useful information for you to browse before you order your next custom made masterpiece. As with all Blugiallo tailoring, what we offer online is only a small part of the total range of fabrics we offer. For that reason, if you have something particular in mind – we often recommend scheduling a consultation, either digitally or via our showrooms. Our consultations serve as a natural part of our concept and is not something you pay extra for as a customer.

In this article


The wool overcoat is truly a wardrobe staple for Fall & Winter season. With the right type of preference-based choices and proper care, it will serve you for years to come. Depending on the preference and individual style, a wool overcoat can be worn in many different occasions and vary from classic, tailored styling to more contemporary, casual styling. The overcoat is a versatile garment and is equally popular with our clients wearing it only with suits, as it is with our clients wearing it with jeans or casual tailoring.

Tailored wool overcoat midnight blue

The tailored wool overcoat in midnight blue, because of the versatile characteristics, is one of the most common choices when ordering your first made to measure wool overcoat.

Q&A Overcoats

When talking about a classic wool overcoat (with a proper length to it) we mainly offer two ground patterns or models/styles if you will. These are:

  • The classic single or double breasted overcoat
  • The classic or split raglan car coat

For these styles, we also offer a few optional designs tweaks (eg. Lapels, shoulder construction, pockets, lining) to create the right type of balance between casual or formal depending on your preference as a customer.

An overcoat is no different to other clothing, so getting the fit uniquely adapted to your body and preference is important. A common mistake we see from ready to wear is to make the overcoat sizes too narrow in the fit. An overcoat should always have sufficient room in the shoulder, waist, back and arms. Many times, people forget the importance of being able to ‘layer’ underneath your overcoat, either with a suit, or in casual occasions a heavy cashmere knit or similar. The length is also important to adjust to the bearer, as it will determine the formality and overall comfortability of the garment. To us, it makes little sense to make an overcoat too short, as it will loose both warmth and the tailored look you want. All of these aspects can be tailored to each clients unique preferences when creating a Blugiallo overcoat. And on top of that, you can alter the design and fabric. Benefits of a made to measure overcoat:

  • Creating measurements and a fit uniquely adapted to your body and preference (better look and comfortability)
  • Choosing unique fabrics for the style, occasion and lifestyle you have
  • Altering the design together with our style advisors to enhance your own preference in terms of style or look

If you have acquired your measurements (online or in our showrooms), we always create a fit profile for ALL of our products. This means you’re ready to order any product as we’ve already created your measurements for you. We also do this as soon as we develop a new product – so no worries about ordering this baby as well. You can see your measurements on your dashboard when logging in to and you’re always welcome to write us in the chat or via email or phone if you want to discuss it.

Naturally, a high-quality 100% wool is the most common choice for a classic overcoat. It is extremely versatile and depending on the knowledge of the mill, it can also be produced to strengthen certain characteristics, such as being wind, water and stain resistant. In general, you don’t want to compromise on the 100% wool compostion, because as soon as you start mixing wool with synthetic fibres, it looses both the soft feeling, quality and warmth.

There are also technical wool fabrics, such as the ‘Storm system’ fabrics from Loro Piana, that offer a completely wind and waterproof membrane, however these fabrics are more useful when transitioning into winter or early spring as they are not as warm as a regular wool fabric.

Then there is the cashmere fabric, which is the most warm, soft and comfortable fabric available for an overcoat. The cashmere wool is more lustrous than a regular wool fabric and also slightly more delicate. Takeaways:

  • Always opt for high quality a 100% wool fabric, meaning no synthetic fibres or mix of wools. This is standard for all of our tailoring.
  • Wool, cashmere and technical wool fabrics have different areas of use, choose the one that fits your needs best.
  • If you are uncertain but have unlimited budget – choose 100% cashmere.


Yes, as with all of our tailoring – we offer a wide range of “Cut length fabrics” from all of the best mills on the market. We offer a huge range of different wool fabrics in different weights, but also technical wool fabrics, Casentino wool and of course the very best, pure cashmere fabrics for overcoats.

Usually, ‘special fabrics’ are sourced directly from the producer (e.g. Loro Piana or VBC), and is then shipped to our production and uniquely produced for you. The best way of discovering more fabric options is to book a consultation with one of our style advisors.

In general, the weight of a wool overcoat fabric is around 400-700gr/m (a classic suit is normally around 260-320gr/m). The most important aspect is the quality of the wool or fabric used and how it is made. Therefore we only source our fabrics from the very best mills, like Loro Piana or VBC as the difference in quality can be huge. If you are living in a climate where temperatures rarely drop lower than 5-10 degrees, than you are fine with choosing a 400-500gr/m fabric. However, when temperatures drop below 0 degrees, a heavier fabric, around 600-700gr/m is surely needed. Also bear in mind that;

  • A double breasted overcoat will naturally withstand the cold better because of the excess fabric in the front panel.
  • Fabrics and materials vary in charteristics. For example, a cashmere overcoat will withstand the cold better than a normal wool overcoat will because of the nature of the fibre.

Need some extra help?

Schedule a free consultation with one of our style advisors to learn more about our overcoat programme. We can also help you with questions around design, fabrics and measurements.


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