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Home / The Journal / The identity of BLUGIALLO tailoring: The high waisted trouser
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As with many other design and fashion trends, the shape of a formal trouser, including men’s high-rise trousers, has gone up and down during the time of history. To us, however, a high waist trouser remains an absolute integral part of our BLUGIALLO house style – simply because of the clear benefits in terms of cut, comfort and style.
Naturally, the design, cut and fit of a trouser should be carefully and individually considered. Body shape play a huge and important role in terms of the shape of a trouser, but in general – most of our clients benefit from a high waist trouser, meaning the placement of the waist starts in line with or above the hip bone.
While some fashion trends are more prone to change, the style of high waist trousers is rooted in the history and art of tailoring, and for an obvious reason, a high waist trouser will not only achieve better comfort but also bring a more aesthetically pleasing trouser. Simply put it will match better with classic tailored garments in general (classic, meaning it can be contemporary but never too tight or small).
Since the high waist trouser is an important part of our house style and identity, we’ve curated some of the most important aspects of it below.
Trouser rise is the measurement between the front waistband down to the crotch seam between the legs. If you have a low rise the distance between these points is smaller. This is also referred to as a high waist vs low waist. Usually, low-rise trousers sit lower on the torso and high-rise trousers sit higher, above the hip, and sometimes at the level of your belly button. The exact rise of a pair of trousers will of course vary depending on style, design, and, preferences.
The rise of a pair of trousers will play an important part in the overall look of an outfit so it’s necessary to find a good balance, both for your formal trousers but also for your high waisted jeans. If you are new to the concept of made to measure (custom made clothing), you can create your BLUGIALLO measurement profile here within a couple of minutes.
BLUGIALLO house cut Men & Women's Tailoring
First of all, BLUGIALLO is a contemporary, luxury tailoring house yet with a clear belief when it comes to fit, cut and measurements. Our house style and cut is what we deliver in order to create understated luxury outfits for our clients that last over time, creating longevity and sustainability. This doesn’t mean that we’re completely rigid. Clothes need to be individually shaped and adapted depending on each client. We can do a certain amount of compromise in terms of fit, depending on each clients needs and preferences.
And in terms of style and comfort for a tailored trouser, there are a few important things to consider. This is key, not only for the trouser, but for an overall harmony in terms of styling and creating well balanced outfits.
A high waist is often considered (and experienced) as a more comfortable fit but also a more aesthetically pleasing trouser. When you choose to have a high waist the trouser will ‘sit’ on the softer parts of your body and will therefore be perceived as significantly more comfortable. Another more practical side to it, is the advantage of a high rise trouser staying in place better and avoid the risk of slipping down.
When shifting the focus towards the more aesthetic performances of a pair of high waisted trousers we find a number of things. The biggest advantage of raising the waist in a pair of trousers is that you immediately achieve a considerably more dressed-up look, which is often desirable for a suit, for example. But with this said, a pair of high waisted jeans is also a good option for a more casual approach. By raising the waist above the hip you will achieve a well-balanced pair of trousers. The ‘balance’ of a trouser or a tailored outfit is also relative to the order garments, so for example a high waisted trouser at a certain height is optimal (and necessary) to create a smooth, harmonious look when paired with a tailored jacket.
A pair of high rise trousers could easily be worn regardless if you are tall or short. If you are slightly shorter, it is common to worry that you will “disappear” in the trousers, while a slightly taller person may be afraid that your legs will look too long. Because of this, it’s extra important that you find the right height of the waist based on your height. No matter your height, the best trick is to aim for your belly button and then place the waist of your trousers just below it. This is not only a well-balanced trouser waist but also a very good step towards testing a slightly higher rise in the trousers.
The high waist will also give the expression of slightly longer legs, which is extremely eye-catching. The trouser thereby helps to highlight your body in a very nice way and also has the benefit of a better drape. A decent drape (on a any trouser) can be achieved with the right height and width of the trouser, which is also why having your trouser custom made, or ‘made to measure’ is extremely beneficial.
A high cut waist is equally important for tailored jeans as for chinos and formal trousers
Considering that a higher trouser waist tends to be segmented as a slightly more classic model of the trousers, it means that the rest of the silhouette of the trousers should permeate the same idea. By combining a pair of trousers that have a higher waist together with a straighter silhouette (yet still tailored), the overall look of the trousers will be significantly better. A pair of slim trousers with a high waist always risks looking like a pair of ’long-johns’, something that you obviously want to avoid. Therefore it is very important to achieve a nice drape in the trousers. You want to achieve a natural look so that the trousers are neither perceived as too narrow nor too wide.
The design of your trousers should, of course, be based on your personal preferences but there are a couple of design choices that go exceptionally well together with high-rise trousers. The first design choice worth considering when creating a slightly higher waist, is pleats. You can choose between single or double pleats, and they will give you a little more room over the seat and hip area which contributes to increased comfort. Furthermore, pleats also result in a neat detail that makes you look slightly taller.
The next option to consider is whether to go for belt loops or side adjusters. In this case, there is also a matter of the level of formality. Always choose side adjusters when it comes to a slightly more dressed pair of trousers, such as for a suit in a midnight blue traveler. To achieve a slightly more casual look by choosing a pair of trousers in heavy cotton twill, it is a very nice choice to choose belt loops and add a thin belt in brown suede.
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