BLUGIALLO Tailoring: The Art of Jacket Construction – Full, Half, and Unconstructed Options

At BLUGIALLO, when we talk about canvas, we’re referring to the hidden layer within your jacket. This is where the magic happens. Our canvas is made from a blend of linen, cotton, and horsehair—natural materials chosen for their breathability and ability to mold to your body. It’s all about structure, drape, and durability.

Whether you choose a full canvas, half canvas, or go for our unconstructed option, the canvas plays a key role in the way your jacket looks, feels, and moves with you. Let’s dive into each of these styles to help you decide what suits your needs best.

At BLUGIALLO, we offer a few options for jacket construction, each tailored to a different need and occasion.

1. Half-Canvas Construction – Our go-to choice for most jackets, offering a balanced, clean silhouette that works for both business and casual occasions.
2. Full-Canvas Construction – The ultimate in tailoring, providing a structured fit that evolves with you, perfect for more formal wear.
3. Unconstructed Jackets – A relaxed, laid-back option for when you want all the style, but none of the stiffness.

At BLUGIALLO, most of our jackets come with half-canvas construction as standard. It’s where tailoring meets versatility. In this construction, the canvas is sewn into the jacket from the shoulder to just below the chest. This adds structure to the areas where it matters most—the chest and lapel. The rest of the jacket is fused for a lighter, more comfortable feel.

Why go for half canvas? It strikes a balance between formality and ease, creating a natural roll in the lapels and giving your jacket the right amount of structure without feeling stiff. Perfect for a business meeting or a night out, it’s all about adaptability.

For those who want the best of the best, a full-canvas construction is the pinnacle of jacket craftsmanship. At BLUGIALLO, we love this option for its superior fit and longevity. The canvas runs throughout the entire front of the jacket, creating a jacket that moves and molds to your body over time, resulting in a fit that feels personal.

Full-canvas jackets are ideal for formal occasions—a wedding, a black-tie event, or an important business meeting. The extra work that goes into a full-canvas jacket is worth every stitch, giving you a garment that ages beautifully and offers long-lasting wear.

If you’re all about comfort but still want that tailored look, our unconstructed jackets are the perfect choice. With no internal canvas or padding, these jackets have a lightweight, cardigan-like feel. They drape softly on the body and are ideal for casual settings—think dinners with friends or more relaxed work environments.

Paired with jeans, chinos, or even cotton trousers, an unconstructed jacket is the perfect go-to when you want to look put together without feeling overly formal.

At BLUGIALLO, we often get asked whether unlined jackets are the same as unconstructed ones. Here’s the scoop: they’re not. While unconstructed refers to the lack of internal canvas, an unlined jacket means that the inner fabric is left bare, allowing the material to breathe more easily.

An unlined jacket works best with lightweight fabrics like high-twist wool, offering extra airflow and comfort in warmer climates. To maintain the structure, we still add lining to the upper back and sleeves, ensuring the jacket drapes beautifully while reducing friction between your shirt and jacket.

A Great example of how we utilize both unconstructed & unlined option when designing a jacket is our Soft Suit. The results is something that both looks and feels different from a traditional suit.

So, what’s the best construction for you? It all depends on your needs and the occasions you’re dressing for. At BLUGIALLO, we craft each jacket based on your lifestyle, ensuring that whatever you choose will be perfect for your wardrobe.

• Casual settings – For a relaxed vibe, our unconstructed jackets are your best friend. Try them in flannel or linen for the perfect balance between style and comfort.
• Semi-formal attire – Need something for the office? Our half-canvas jackets are ideal for creating a sharp, tailored look that works just as well with a suit as it does with chinos.
• Formal occasions – If you’re heading to a wedding or a black-tie event, it’s all about the full-canvas construction. This level of craftsmanship will give you a suit that not only looks amazing but also lasts for years to come.