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Full canvas vs half canvasPublished: Found in: Tailoring guides
What is the main difference between a full canvas suit and a half canvas? When do you need a full canvassed jacket? And what does fused canvas mean?
You might have even more questions about the different types of constructions of a jacket and when you should wear what, and the choice of construction and chosen fabric will sometimes generate different outcomes in terms of look and feel. But don’t you worry. In this article, we will go through everything you need to know to be able to make the right choice for you.
What is canvas?
When talking about canvas we refer to the jacket’s interior layer and its structure. In our case, the canvas consists of linen, cotton, and horsehair, three natural materials that breathe very well. The main purpose of the jacket’s canvas is that it should contribute to better consistency in the jacket. Of course, this, like the rise of the trousers, is a matter of preference and is therefore based partly on the degree of formality you want to achieve, and partly on which areas of use the jacket should cover. Full canvas construction, half sewn canvas construction, or unconstructed construction are all three incredibly nice options – your choice depends on your preferences and the use.
Our constructions are divided into:
Sewn half canvas – our entry level construction and a well-chosen default choice for all jackets.
Full canvas – Our sewn full canvas construction provides an extraordinary fit and well-defined silhouette.
Unconstructed – The casual choice of construction for a relaxed approach.
What is a half sewn canvas construction?
We supply our blazers, unless otherwise is stated, in a half sewn canvas construction. But what does it actually mean? Half-sewn canvas construction starts from the shoulder and is containing three sewn layers covering the chest in order to support the crucial area around chest and lapel roll. Where it ends depends on whether you choose a 2.5 buttons notch lapel, 2 buttons notch or peak lapel.
Having the canvas sewn into the lapel creates a larger lapel roll which always should be seen as a qualitative aspect on any jacket.
Regardless if you choose a half canvas or full canvas, our canvas is always stitched along the edges of the jacket instead of fused. A stitched canvas means higher quality then a fused canvas.
From the button where the half-canvas construction ends, we choose to put a synthetic interlayer to cover the rest of the jackets inside down to its end. Because of that, the artificial inlay is fused all the way down to the end of the jacket. The primary purpose of this type of construction is to create a better fit in the jacket where the chest area and lapels are mainly in focus. By choosing this construction, the jacket has a fantastic drape over the chest area, and in combination with a 2.5 button notch lapel, the half-canvas construction contributes to a better roll throughout the lapel.
You can read more, and explore all our formal jackets here.
What is a full canvas construction?
A full canvas can be considered the next level in the construction of the jacket, where craftsmanship, drape and feeling are really in focus. Full canvas suit construction means that the canvas lies, just like half canvas, over the chest and shoulder area but it follows the jacket all way down to the hem covering the full front part of the jacket.
Considering that the canvas construction is always stitched, this means that a full canvas construction is stitched all the way along the inside of the jacket.
But what really distinguishes a full canvas suit?
A full canvas suit does not only provides a better construction but also higher quality which means that the lifetime of the jacket is significantly longer. Because the canvas construction is stitched it means that the fabric is never at risk of loosening as it might do in a fused construction.
A full canvassed jacket, which we mentioned, is stitched along the entire side of the jacket, will allow the canvas to move freely under the fabric. When the canvas construction is allowed to float it results in a jacket that completely shapes to the wearer’s body after wearing it a couple of times. This will give the canvassed jacket a tailored feeling. This construction also means less wrinkles and less stress on the fabric when wearing the jacket. There is an incredible amount of work that can be done regarding the fit and translating your preferences into the desired silhouette you are looking for. Any great craftsman will for sure be able to help you with this. We like to describe a full canvas jacket as the feeling of getting a warm hug from your jacket. The full canvas construction is therefore a great way to guarantee a long life for your jacket.
What is a unconstructed construction?
What actually happens if you choose a jacket without any kind of canvas, what will be the result then? If you choose to completely remove the canvas construction in the jacket, you instead achieve something called an unconstructed construction. The result of this is a very loose and relaxed jacket that can often feel like a cardigan as it has no inlays and no structure at all.
The experience you may expect wearing an unconstructed jacket is a soft, flexible and casual feeling, letting the jacket pattern and individual measurements present the authentic shape of the jacket. This alternative is a perfect substitute to the formal wear and should be seen a casual option. Perfect in combination with denims, chinos and cotton trousers.
Is unlined jacket the same as unconstructed construction?
A very common occurrence is that, due to all the different design choices, the meaning of an unconstructed construction and an unlined jacket are confused as being the same thing. The fact is, however, that these two options are two completely different things, that can of course be advantageously combined. If nothing else is said, we deliver our jackets fully lined, which means that the jacket has lining throughout the entire inside of the jacket. The lining itself consists of 100% viscose, a material that breathes well, but at the same time the ability to hold heat. If you instead choose to remove the lining and choose an unlined jacket, this means that the material takes full advantage of its properties, such as for example, a jacket in high twist wool that transports air in a very good way. Even if you choose unlined we always want to keep a small part of the lining up the back and in the sleeves. The reason for this is that the drape of the jacket only sits up in the back, which means that you don’t want any friction to be created between the jacket and the shirt that affects the fit in a negative way. In this way, you will always get the same fit regardless of if you choose a fully lined or unlined jacket.
What construction for my jacket?
When we finally sorted out what full canvas vs half canvas actually mean it’s time to talk about what to choose. The construction of the jacket and which one to choose can easily be divided into different categories depending on the context in which the jacket is intended to be used and the type of approach you want to achieve.
Casual attires – Let’s say you are looking for a jacket that you can use in more casual attires such as a drink in town with your friends, choose an unconstructed jacket. Preferably in flannel, for example, which you can easily combine with a pair of denims.
Semi formal attires – If the jacket is intended to be used in a work environment where you need to look sharp in a meeting or similar, choose a half canvas suit construction. Feel free to combine as a full suit or together with a pair of trousers in mid grey fresco.
Formal attires – If you’e attending a wedding where you’re likely to wear a dark suit or tuxedo, definitely choose a full canvas suit construction. That will take the tailored feel to the next level.
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