Guide – An introduction to denim

03 November, 2019

Few fabrics and garments boast the same heritage and history as denim and jeans. The jeans (the garment that is primarily associated with the denim fabric) are also perhaps the garments that have managed to defy history’s changeability best. Whatever style you enjoy wearing, the jeans have an obvious place in the base wardrobe. Below you will find a quick course in the fabric, the production and the story behind the jeans.

The jeans and the history of the fabric

The word ‘denim’ is said to originate from the southern French city of Nîmes, and simply means ‘from Nîmes’ (de Nîmes). Nîmes was part of an important textile region during the 18th century, where wool and silk fabrics were woven in the so-called. ‘Twill’ technique. Denim fabrics are woven with the same technique and are simply described a cotton fabric woven with twill technique. In 1695, denim fabrics appeared in England and then spread to the United States during the 19th century. From 1873, the jeans appeared as garments for the first time when a tailor named Jacob Davis made the first pants of denim fabric, reinforced with rivets. The rest is, as you say – history.

Manufacturing and qualities

A pair of Blugiallo jeans are woven and manufactured in Veneto, Italy, where they have been manufacturing high quality jeans for over a hundred years. When we measure a pair of jeans, we usually work with measures such as waist, waist height, length and foot, knee and thigh width. The dimensions combined with the fabrics allow us to adapt to the occasions and style to which you wear jeans.

When it comes to the type of denim, we usually distinguish between two categories, unwashed raw denim  (raw denim) and washed denim with stretch. Both qualities require a great deal of craftsmanship, but the main difference is that advice is often associated with a slightly stiffer, rigid feeling. A washed jeans trousers, often with a little stretch in, gives a softer and more flexible fit. Both qualities have their charm and clear characteristics.

Selvedge jeans

Our weavers

Candiani

Founded in 1938 on the outskirts of Milan. Perhaps the individual denim and jeans weaving that focuses most on the development of ‘green textiles’ with the aim of reducing the climate impact. Today has its production in Veneto, Italy – a region recognized for producing many of the world’s best denim fabrics. Candiani also has one of the world’s first ‘raw selvedge denim’ fabrics with stretch in, a fabric that is otherwise associated with thicker fabrics that must be ‘broken in’.

Blue Selvedge

Textile company Berto’s brand for denim manufacturing. History stretching back to 1887 in Padua, Italy. Uses original ‘Picanol’ looms from the 1950s.

Kuroki

Founded in Okayama, Japan in the 1950s. Japan accounts for only about 1% of the world’s denim fabrics, but is known for its soaring quality and precision in the craftsmanship behind the fabrics.

White Oak

Opened its (for denim geeks) legendary ‘Cone Denim – White Oak mill’ in 1904. At that time the world’s largest denim plantation.

selvedge denim konstruktion

The denim dictionary

Denim

The very fabric used in the manufacture of jeans.

Jeans

The trousers made from the denim fabric.

Indigo

A natural pigment used for dyeing the denim fabric. The color bath starts with a green / white color which then reacts with the oxygen in the air, creating the characteristic blue color. The more color baths, the deeper the blue color can be achieved.

Selvedge denim

Time-consuming craftsmanship in which the fabric is woven on old, traditional looms and creates natural, irregular patterns in the fabric.

Raw denim

The purest form of denim fabric where you do not wash or treat the fabric. This creates a jeans trousers that feel a bit more rigid and rigid but that soften when used. The obvious choice for a purist.

Stretch denim

Refers to a hybrid of denim, where the fabric is made with a slight elastane (elastic fiber). Appeared for the first time at the legendary Cone Mills in the US in 1962 and has since been the most popular jeans quality among jeans wearers.

Oz. (Ounce)

The weight of the denim fabrics is determined in Oz (Ounce per square yard). Most jeans are sewn in a weight of between 11-14 Oz, but there are examples of Japanese weavers that make jeans by weight up to 25 Oz.

Chain stitch

The sewing technique used in sewing the stroke at the bottom of the pants. The thread runs in a sequence and is looped back, creating a chain-like stitch.

Coin pocket

Often referred to as the ‘fifth’ pocket on a pair of jeans and also referred to as the ‘clock pocket’. The design originates from the legendary Levi’s 501 from 1873.

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